Backpack Hike

5 Day Otter
17 Dec 12 - 21 Dec 12

Robbie Macdonald’s quest to hike most of the South African coastline reached Storms River last year, and this year the coastal hike continued by doing the Otter Trail, starting at Storms River and ending at Nature’s Valley. Next year Robbie intends to continue on from Nature’s Valley.

The Otter Trail was opened in 1968 (44 years ago!) and is one of the early National Hiking Trails established in South Africa. It accommodates twelve hikers in two fairly spacious well-built log huts, six per hut, and Robbie was fortunate to be able to secure the booking with Marion’s help. The group of twelve, after a few last minute cancellations, was: Robbie Macdonald, Anne Bell, Elsa Wloschowsky, Hanneke Stouthamer, Sue Emmett, Dave Emmett, Claire Bowen, Marie Neilon, Gaynor Mcturk, Annabel Touati, and Zandree and Allan Lill. Most of the group left Johannesburg on Saturday the 15th December. Various lifts had been arranged and the aim was to meet at the Tube n’ Axe at Storms River Village later the same day. The Tube n’ Axe offers bunks in a dormitory, as well as other accommodation, and specialises in organising and offering outdoor activities, such as Blackwater Tubing, Bungee Jumping, Canopy Tour and Waterfall Ziplining. Our programme was to have Sunday 16th free, allowing anyone who wanted to, to do any of these activities, walk, or just relax. As it turned out some of the group only arrived at the Tube n’ Axe on Sunday. The traffic on the road from Johannesburg on the N1 was extremely heavy and long delays were experienced on the road by some of us. Long queues at Toll Gates, delays at a number of accident scenes, long queues of cars waiting to overtake heavy vehicles on the road, and a police road block at Bloemfontein added as much as three hours delay, forcing some to sleep over and travel the rest of the way on Sunday.

Included in the deal with the Tube n’ Axe was transport of our group and backpacks down to Storms River Mouth on Monday, and to fetch as at Nature’s Valley at the end of the hike on Friday and take us all back to the Tube n’Axe. The plan was to have breakfast at the Storms River Mouth Restaurant on the Monday morning and then set off along the coast on the Otter Trail down to the Ngubu huts, our first overnight huts.

So on Monday our upbeat group set off in the vehicles down to the Storms River Reserve entrance to register and sign in. Our enthusiasm was short lived as we discovered that the start of Otter Trail route had recently been changed. The trail now goes straight down to the sea from the Reserve entrance and then picks up the old route on the coast, cutting out Storms River Mouth, and our restaurant for breakfast! We were not permitted to start the Otter Trail from Storms River Mouth as planned. A further complication was discovered when the Parks Reception advised us that the daily Conservation fee was still owed, and that we could not enter until that had been settled. In the meantime the Tube n’ Axe driver had to leave as he had other transport commitments, leaving us stranded at the Reserve entrance. In the end, after some negotiations with the officials and phone calls to Marion to get the Conservation fee urgently paid, the officials relented and gave us permission to start the Otter Trail from Storms River Mouth so that our hungry group would not have to forego breakfast. They even gave us transport down to the Mouth from the entrance, some 4 or 5 km, for which everyone was very grateful.

After a good breakfast we all walked the short distance to the suspension bridge over the Storms River, always a stunning view. Then at around midday we set off down the coast for Ngubu huts, only a short 4,6 km hike, with waves crashing against the rocks sending spray high into air, a scene Storms River is well known for. This section of the route involves quite a lot of clambering over rocks and boulders, which can be slippery and even dangerous when wet. Hikers have been hurt and had to be rescued by rangers on this section and this is probably the reason that the start of the route for the Otter Trail has been changed, in order to avoid this rocky section.

Along the trail we came across a Blue Duiker browsing very close to us in the scrub. It was totally unafraid and made no attempt to run. Further along we came across another Blue Duiker and her calf. Both gazed curiously up at us as we walked, higher up, on the path. We stopped at the waterfall for a while, which cascades into a large pool which overflows down the rocks and into the sea.

Gaynor took her first swim, the first of many. The weather was perfect and a braai fire was lit at Ngubu huts before evening fell. There was plenty of drift wood available to supplement the firewood provided. Happy Hour was enjoyed as the sun set and darkness slowly fell. The conversation moved to how lovely it was to be on the Otter Trail again, as most of the group had done it before. A spotted genet was seen lurking in the undergrowth waiting for an opportunity to retrieve any morsels left over around the fire, which it later did.

The second day, with good mild weather, covered some interesting territory over the 7.9 km walk to Scott huts. We missed the path turnoff to Skilderkrans on the way, but left our pack packs on the trail an returned a few 100 meters to go down a short path and onto Skilderkrans, a massive head that juts out a little way into the sea providing good views of the surroundings. Back on the trail, just before the 4 km mark the path moves inland and drops down to the Kleinbos River. The river was chest deep at its deepest region and we all used our survival bags to float out pack packs as we waded to the other side. We stopped on the opposite bank for a break, enjoying the beauty of the river and the forests on either side while we dried off and had snacks or early lunch.

Further along the trail there is a turnoff that takes one down to Blue Bay, a beautiful sandy beach, of which there is not much along the Otter Trail. The turn off down to the bay was difficult to locate as it seems not many hikers use it. About 2/3 of the group went down to Blue Bay. Although the water was inviting, the surf was very rough, and seemed quite dangerous. Most of us changed into our swimming costumes and splashed near the edge before retreating to the beach. By the time we climbed up from Blue Bay and found the hiking trail the others had left and gone on to Scott huts, where we joined them later, probably around 3 pm.

By morning the sky was again clear and we set off on day 3 for Oakhurst huts, about 7,7 km away. The Lottering River crossing was simple, not more than knee deep. Some bolder hopped across and others removed their boots. Some whales were later spotted beyond the waves after arriving at the huts. In the late afternoon the weather started to cloud over and soon after dark it rained quite heavily for a while.

By morning the weather had cleared again for the fourth day, a 13,8 km distance to Andre huts. This is the longest distance on the Otter Trail, with the notorious Bloukrans River crossing at the 10 km mark. The tide timing, good weather and slow flowing river made for an easy and safe crossing. We crossed at around 3:30 just after low tide. Robbie had brought a safety rope, which was used for added security. The river was neck deep for a few meters for the tallest of us, while the others had to swim a short distance after wading most of the way. In the late afternoon a few dolphins were seen surfing the waves as we relaxed at the huts.

The last day is a short 6.8 km to Nature’s Valley, which we all reached well before midday. Many of us had a last swim in the sea at the beautiful beach. Unfortunately we never spotted the elusive otters on the Otter Trail. After a long wait the Tube n’ Axe transport arrived. Hanneke and Else remained at Nature’s Valley to start the Tsitsikamma Trail the next day. After doing the Tsitsikamma Trail they were to hike the Amatola Trail, but they can tell you more about that when you see them. On the way back to the Tube n’ Axe at Storms River Village we were all nearly involved in a serious accident, possibly fatal, when our driver fell asleep at the wheel and veered across onto the opposite side of the road. Allan and Robbie were sitting directly behind the driver and immediately shook him and shouted. Fortunately the driver managed to correct the vehicle before it was too late and we got back onto the left side of the road. We demanded he stop. The driver was all for continuing after doing some stretching, but we refused to let him drive and Allan drove the vehicle and trailer the last 5 km or so back to the Tube ‘n Axe, where all this was reported. A few days later Hanneke, now back at the Tube n’ Axe after completing the Tsitsikamma Trail, has since reported that on the evening they were there the same driver and others drank and partied until late and finally passed out in the communal lounge for the night. We can only hope he did not have any driving duties the next morning.

Our near accident aside, the hike went off excellently, was thoroughly enjoyed buy all, and Robbie was thanked for putting together another well organised trail.

Snapshots